So I am currently sitting in a cyber cafe in Dschang. I have been trying for a while to upload a couple of pictures and I finally got one to work. The picture is of me in an African dress I bargained at for the market in Dschang. I went to the Chefferie which is where the Superior Chief of the Bamilikes lives in a palace of sorts with his many wives and many children. It was a strange yet interesting experience. I kind of westernized the dress with a belt but oh well haha. I will get the clothes I had fitted for me when I return to Yaounde next week.
Yesterday I was in a cyber cafe and the internet stopped working because it was raining outside. I instantly had another one of those I am really in Africa moments. The keyboard I am using is French and it is really difficult to type because some of the letters are in different spots. I also cannot figure out how to do a question mark a comma an exclamation point or anything useful. Ugh. But I just wanted to say that I am qalive and kicking in Dschang. It is extremely rainy and muddy here. My walk to school is about 35 minutes and includes two massive mountains of mud. Good fun.
I wanted to do a quick post while I'm sitting in the office waiting for a doctor to come to talk to us about the Cholera epidemic. I guess Cholera is spreading very quickly, but right now it's mostly stationed in the grand north of Cameroon. In about a month or so we are supposed to travel to Ngaoundere, which is close to the north. However, we might adjust our program and stay longer in Kribi or something to avoid Cholera. Kribi has a high pygmy population, so I'm really excited to visit!
We are off to the cities of Dschang and then Bamenda this morning for about two weeks. I will not have much internet access while I am there, so don't worry if I haven't updated! While we're in Dschong I will be staying at a new home stay. I'm kind of nervous for a new family! I heard Dschong is colder and muddier and a bit more rural than where we have been in the capital of Yaounde. But it should be an interesting experience!
By the way, I have survived my first illness in Africa. A couple of days ago I was having really bad ear aches, which I've had before. I tried to take some pain killers but it wasn't going away. So I went to the hospital here and it was kind of intimidating. I guess I was picturing a large and organized hospital. When I pulled in, I had one of those "wow, I'm really a developing country" moments. The parking lot (more like a drop off area-ish thing) was all mud. When you walk in, there are a bunch of people and benches and you just kind of try to get ahead of people to check in. Nothing is really computerized and everything is confusing. I'm glad a staff member was with me because I had absolutely no idea what was going on. But in the end, I got some medicine for an ear infection. My stomach has been hurting a lot though so I hope the medicine starts to agree with me. Being sick is no fun, but it's extra stressful when you feel like you can't understand the language or culture, and the medicines are different. Eek.
On a better note, I got fitted for my fun African clothes. They should be ready when I get back from Dschong! I got two dresses, one more traditional and one kind of cute and summery. I also got a tunic with some of the extra fabric, as well as patchwork pants which I am SO excited about! So, so, so excited.
Oh, and on student night (Thursday night) we made improv-Cameroonian grilled cheeses. We used a big baguette and bought some over priced cheddar cheese and tomatoes. But for what it was, it was delicious. I have actually grown to love fried plantains too. I may have already mentioned that in my last post, but my mom makes them so well! I will make them when I get home for a taste of Cameroon!
My mom in Yaounde is really sweet. She gave me the spreadable cheese as a gift, bought me all kinds of fruit (probably evidenced by my obsession with oranges here), and even gave me a blouse. It has teddy bears on it, but I will sport it like a champ.
I will do my best to find some internet in the next two weeks, but if not I'll write a nice long post about Dschang and Bamenda when I get back!
Misses,
Brittany
I miss you all and life in the US especially. But things are really improving and I’m starting to feel more and more happy and comfortable. I’m not as home sick or nervous. However, just when I’m starting to feel really comfortable we are leaving for the next city (Dschong) on Saturday. We will have a new home stay for two weeks and then we will to go to another city, Bamenda, for a weekend. Bamenda is the English speaking part of Cameroon. Cameroon is actually officially a bi-lingual country (French and English). I was learning the history of Cameroon in class today. It’s pretty interesting since the country only became independent in the 1940’s from England and France. Alas, there are provinces which are French and those which are English, although French is more prevalent throughout. I kind of wish we were staying in Bamenda for longer so I could have a taste of English, haha. But I guess the English is what they call “pigeon English.” It’s not exactly like the English we speak. We’re going to have one class on “pigeon English” so that will be interesting I’m sure.
Last Wednesday we found this really cool hang out place after school. I can’t remember the name but it starts with a C and it’s a really nice bar with comfy chairs and tables outside under this unique covering. Some of my classmates met the owner the day before and he said we could come whenever we wanted and sit and relax and even use our computers; there’s wireless there! So on Wednesday we all went and relaxed and had a beer. It was pure beauty. Normally I don’t even like beer but I tried this local one called “33” and it had a nice and unique taste. Essentially, it was no Keystone…
Last Thursday was student’s night. The school office is open until 8 PM so we can stay after school and hang out and make food and stuff. We made spaghetti and sauce and it was delicious. The Cameroonian student, Ornella, is so funny. She thinks we’re such cushioned little Americans. I think her point was proven when we attempted to light the stove about seven times and kept turning it off. Haha. I realized that I have a huge fear of fire, by the way. Note that. We cut up tomatoes, garlic, and onions to add to the sauce. Ornella put a chunk of it in the blender with some basil and surprisingly it was DELICIOUS. For some reason it was kind of spicy (maybe the six cloves of garlic??) Feel free to speculate. Whatever, I indulged in the spaghetti. However, spaghetti is actually really common here. And when I say common I mean it is not rare to buy a spaghetti and bean or spaghetti and egg sandwich on the street. Those crazy Cameroonians.
After school on Friday some of went back to the bank. It was less of an adventure this time since we remembered to ask the taxi driver for “SGBC Bank,” haha. Then we met up with the rest of the group at this really neat garden/park. We wanted to play soccer or frisbee or something but it was actually a really nice and unique garden area. It was huge and full of different spots to sit and relax. We felt a little out of place sitting in the Jardin D’Amour" (Garden of Love) haha. This group of young school boys came over to where we were all sitting and were really obnoxious asking if we had any “cadeaux” which are presents. This is the first time we’ve experienced people/children asking for anything. They were not too serious and settled for a few minutes with the soccer ball. Then a few of us went to a grocery store across the street. I legit stared at the packaged cheese for about 20 minutes. It took all my might not to buy some. I have not had cheese once since coming here. I’m sure all of you reading this know my sincere love and devotion for cheese (grilled cheese, macaroni and cheese, eggs and cheese, pasta and cheese, fettuccine alfredo, etc. etc. etc.) So this is very difficult for me. The only time I had a small taste of cheese was during breakfast yesterday. My mama gave me a surprise small “Laughing Cow” piece and I legit like drooled. It was mildly embarrassing but oh so worth it. J Anyways, at the grocery store I ended up buying two packs of cheap cookies. On the taxi ride home I ate an ENTIRE pack. It was really disgusting because I didn’t even attempt to engage in the conversation with the taxi cab driver. I just kept stuffing my face and saying I was busy. I’m so gross but oh so hungry. However, for the record, I have been getting more and more used to the food here and even had extremely delicious fried plantains this past weekend. Who would have guessed?
Saturday was a wicked fun day! We met at the school and then went to a "boulangerie" and grabbed breakfast and lunch foods. Then we went to an art school of sorts and had a tour. I bought a couple of small things and took some pictures. Most of the students who go there are only like 17 or 18 years old and the art is AMAZING. Whenever I visit places like that I end up feeling a tad bit depressed because I lack artistic talent, haha. At least I’m somewhat creative. Then we drove to a gorilla sanctuary. It was so amazing. We essentially trekked through the rain forest to see all these different types of monkeys, apes, and gorillas. They like chased us and tried to throw things at us! I got some really cool pictures. The place was huge and outside. I’ve only seen animals like that in a zoo and this was totally different because they keep the gorillas there for their safety and it resembles their natural habitat. Also, most are native to different parts of Africa which is so neat. Then a couple of girls and I went to this Chinese restaurant for dinner. On the way there, we sustained the usual greetings by annoying boys but one said “Madame Sarkozy.” We all thought his flirting was especially creative! The Chinese food was simply amazing. I would like to note that I had WHITE MEAT CHICKEN WITHOUT BONES. If I didn’t already say, Cameroonians generally eat meat and all of the bones. The chicken was in what tasted like a duck sauce and it was perfect. I had an orange soda (Fanta is huge here) and I was in heaven. I wish Chinese/Italian food was not so expensive. I say expensive by Cameroonian terms because it can be anywhere from like 6 or 7 to 10 dollars in American. But most meals are like 1 to 3 dollars so by comparison, it’s really expensive. The food isn’t bad but sometimes I just get sick of rice and spaghetti and plantains and vegetables. The peanut sauce is really good though!
After dinner we were walking back to the school office and one of the girls I was with got pooped on by a bird. I don’t really know why I’m including this in my blog, but it was pretty funny because we weren’t under any trees and there weren’t any birds in sight. I guess it’s a sign of good luck, so she must have been especially lucky! Then we went to a concert with the rest of the group. It was at the French Cultural Center and there were a few different acts. The first one was this man singing half in English and half in French with these two dancer-ish women. It was so painful. I looked around and everyone had an “umm what is this?” face, haha. I think he was somewhat drunk as well. Needless to say, after two songs I was not sad to see him leave the stage. But the main acts were so good! The first time we saw someone go on stage and put money on the singer and dance we thought it was so rude and was sure a security guard or something would remove the person. Then we saw a lot of others do it and realized, yet again, how different cultures behave. We started getting really into one the groups who seemed to be singing like tribal music and the entire group actually got pulled up on stage. We were given the tribal staffs and these shaker instruments. I’m sure we looked hilarious as a group of American kids, but it was so fun!
On Sunday I just relaxed at home with mama and did some homework and caught up on sleep. The water stopped working Sunday morning and it just started again this afternoon. It was funny because I asked mama in French why it stopped working and I swear she said a snake or something. I was inquisitive because I was wondering how a snake could stop the water for all of the capital of Yaoundé. I asked in class and the director laughed because apparently “Snek” pronounced “snake” is the name of the water company. Oh, the powers of miscommunication, haha. School has been good so far but there definitely is a lot of work beginning to pile up. It’s not a ton in the grand scheme of things, but it’s difficult to find a balance for doing work and being with families. It’s been a while since I’ve lived in a home and obviously my home was much different than here where I need to be present to help with chores and the like. I am pretty lucky because it’s just me and my grandma/mom (who I call my “grom”) and my brother/dad (who I call my “brad”) haha. My mom really babies me because she gives me my breakfast, makes my tea, warms my water, etc. The house maid Sylvia washes the clothes and makes food too, so I feel like I don’t do too much. I try to do dishes and stuff whenever I can though to help out and show my appreciation for their hospitality. I’m sure things will be different in my next two home stays, but the one I’m in now is especially important because we return two more times during the program in between visiting other cities around Cameroon.
When we were leaving a restaurant today at lunch time one of the guys eating lunch asked me if one of the girls I was with was my “mommy.” I’m sure you’ll all be happy to know that I am thought to be a small child in Cameroon as well as the US, haha. My big pink backpack and my little girl hair cut probably does not help the situation, but whatever. Also, since we’re students and living in houses our parents and the community generally consider us children as well so it’s kind of an interesting concept. Not much of a change for me! Haha, just kidding.
Oh, today after school I bought fabric with two other girls. We went to this place that had so many styles of fabric for purchase. It was overwhelming! But I am so excited to get dresses/other clothes made! I got two really neat designs. I think when I get back from Dschong I will go with my mama to the dress maker and get measured and pick the styles I want. J
I must do my homework and eat dinner now; a tout a l’heure!
Things seem to be improving a bit. I met my mama on Sunday night but she’s actually my grandma. Serge is actually my brother-ish figure. But I call her mama and she calls me “ma bebe.” She speaks really quickly in French (per usual around here) so it’s often hard to understand. I’m really trying with the language thing…I should probably be better than I am, but in my defense I haven’t done a lot of speaking. However, it’s VITAL here to communicate. Serge (my brother of sorts) knows some English but he wants to help me improve which is good. Mama talks a lot and sometimes I can’t tell if she’s even talking to me? But nonetheless, she is really caring and maternal over all. She warmed up my bath water in the bucket this morning so that was nice. Well, actually, I think she thinks that I do not bathe (at all or enough) so she has gone to extreme measures, haha. Cameroonians are obsessed with cleanliness and bathing. It’s definitely a process in the morning…I decided to use a water bottle to dump the water from the bucket on me and to wash my hair. You essentially have a bucket of water and splash it on you…it’s interesting. At least we have this electric thing that heats the water. Some of my friends were saying all they have is cold water and one girl said her bathroom is outside… I think my home stay is somewhere in the middle between wealthy and poor. I visited one girl’s house and she has this HUGE living room and porch area outside and office with a computer etc. It was ridiculous. One other girl’s family is WICKED rich. I guess they are known all over the country for their affluence. In Cameroon, for the most part you are born into money. Her mom made her promise she wouldn’t take a taxi and insisted that she use the family’s personal driver instead. Who knew the perks a developing country may have?
Classes have officially started. It’s actually a more intense course load than I thought it would be. It’s definitely field based in the way they send you out in the community to complete tasks or meet people etc. But we have a significant amount of work. One of the biggest components is the French language program. I actually really missed taking French so it was fun. I think tomorrow or the next day we are taking a trip to the market place and bargaining for items and stuff. There is a lot of other seminar-ish stuff with readings, essays, group work…the usual. A lot of lecturers come in though from different places so that should be interesting. I can’t believe I left the US a week ago today. It’s crazy.
On Monday we did the ‘drop off.’ The staff literally drove to a random spot and kicked us out of the car in pairs to do a scavenger hunt of sorts with a bunch of questions. We had to take taxi rides, get to the University of Yaounde, go to the Centre Ville, buy a present, use a cyber café, go to a specific textile store, find banks, etc. It doesn’t sound overly difficult but when you’re lost in Cameroon it’s pretty darn scary. Trying to communicate effectively is the most difficult part, but luckily people are generally pretty helpful and understanding. I’d say Cameroonians over all are patient, so that’s a plus. We did pretty well and had a couple of funny instances. During a taxi ride I was in the middle and my friend was next to me. On the other side of me was this man in an official suit; I’m not exactly sure what he was, maybe a guard or something? He asked in French if he could ‘sit between us.’ I didn’t really understand the question but my friend was like “no it’s not possible – the tax is moving!” She said it in French and he asked again but that’s just the kind of things you deal with here.
After school today another girl and I went off in search of an ATM. That was an extreme adventure. ATMs aren’t widely available in Cameroon and a lot of times they are kind of sketchy. We took a taxi to this place and there was supposed to be a bank close by. We walked around forever and tried to ask people and they kept pointing and speaking quickly….come to find out it was legitimately right across the street from where we got out of the taxi. So yeah, we walked up and the guard there stopped us. My friend was like, dude we really need an ATM. He kept saying something quickly but we didn’t understand until I heard the word “inutile.” So, I was like OH IT’S BROKEN. COOL. And my friend tries to ask the guard why it’s broken. Needless to say, we got some long winded answer and then asked where another bank was. The French directions were extremely confusing so we just wandered off in the direction he told us and hoped for the best. On the way, we met a lady selling bananas on the side of the street. We decided she looked friendly so we asked her if she knew where a bank was that had a bunch of letters in the name (hence the only thing we gathered from the guards who sent us off on a wild goose chase). We butchered the French I’m sure, and then she goes. “I know English!! What’s your name?” We had a nice little conversation over the banana stand. I think her name was like Stereoskype or something…I don’t know. Anyways, once we redirected her to our question about the bank she goes “THERE!!!” It was right across the street. Go figure. Long story short, we got our money even though I did have to go back twice because I took out 10 when I meant 100, I must add. Oh, and we stopped back across the street to Ms. Stereo-Banana or whatever and avoided giving her our cell phone numbers but bought bananas. We each ate like three on the taxi ride home. The fruit here is either really delicious, or I’m extremely famished. Probably a combination, but I’M REALLY HUNGRY FOR REAL FOOD.
Now I have to go into my mosquito net bed and go to sleep so I will have the energy to take my ‘bath’ in the morning before I eat my bread for breakfast and walk up the big hill to school and be stared at some more.
Alas, life is here is slowly growing on me. OH, and I am going to a gorilla sanctuary on Saturday!!!
A bientot,
Brittany
P.S. I remembered the name of the banana lady is Scholastica. Haha.
I have arrived safely! (I almost started typing the post in all French haha). The plane ride was very long. I flew from Boston to Zurich, Switzerland and then Zurich to Yaounde, Cameroon. Needless to say, we were all exhausted. It's six hours later here, but parts of the year it's five hours later. I believe it's six right now though. I think I pretty much beat jet lag. I have been really tired by the time the day is over, though! Sleeping is so funny. I set up my big ole mosquito net on the bed. It legitimately took me two hours the first time. I guess I have trouble following directions for tents...And the directions were in English with pictures. Needless to say, the level of French is intimidating. It's not that I do not understand it, it's just so quickly spoken. I can understand why people have trouble understanding English. Americans really speak so fat, haha. I am actually having a French oral language placement exam this morning. I am nervous, but it doesn't really matter because whatever happens I know I will improve over my stay. Last night my papa and I were watching something like a MTV equivalent in French and I was so excited and then Lady Gaga just took over the television. I was so surprised to see American music has globalized here as well, in a developing country. I have not really started classes yet but we did an orientation of sorts. There are just ten people in the program, including me, and only one boy - lucky him, haha. I was most nervous for the food here. So far it has been alright, I guess what I was expecting. A typical breakfast seems to be bread. Lunch and dinner are more or less rice, beans, tomato etc. sauces, some type of meat, bread, and PLANTAINS. My god, I had never had a plantain but they are like God's food here. You can cook them so many different ways. They kind of look like small bananas. I really do miss American food. I am eating but I just do not feel satisfied after I eat. I was surprised at how big of portions you can have though. No one goes hungry in Cameroon...I think it's some kind of saying. I moved into my first homestay last night. I am essentially living in a MANSION. It's crazy. I totally lucked out. My papa came to pick me up and said he lived behind the Nigerian Embassy. Our house is AMAZING. We have cable television and a living room and a kitchen with a stove and a fridge. The best part is I have my own room with a queen bed and a bathroom next door. There's a really nice backyard too. My mama comes today - she was in another city for a funeral this weekend. Papa is so nice. He speaks some English which works out because I speak some French. Most of our conversations are like 75 percent French and 25 percent English. The bathrooms are so different here. There's a toilet but the flusher is at the top and it's essentially a string-ish thing made of plastic you pull up. There is usually a sink but no soap (?) to wash your hands. I am keen on making sure I have hand sanitizer or a bar of soap. Showers...well. It depends on the home, but most Cameroonians have what looks like a shower but no hot water. The house I am in now has this thing you plug in to warm up the water in a bucket and then you can bathe. The hostel we stayed at the first two nights had just cold water. I basically jumped in and out and did a back bend to wash my hair, it was freeeezzzinggg. I guess I am glad I chopped off a lot of my hair because it's easier to wash, but I do really miss it! I always forget to put on sandals here, but no one wears flip flops. Cameroonians are obsessed with shoes and dress; they always have to look nice. So much for the just-out-of-bed college look, haha. I cannot wait to get some clothes made for me because right now, mine are fine but warmer. They use a light weight material and the clothes are so traditional and gorgeous. I only have internet in the school office so I do not know how often I will get to update, but I am keeping a handwritten journal so it will be easier. I guess I am in a weird stage - mostly just culture shock and trying to adjust to the customs and language. I am trying not to let those worries as well as the worries for my safety and health impact my experience. I am sure in a week or two I will be more acclimated, but right now the idea of walking home alone from school is even a little daunting. I learned that most people you can just smile at and say "Bonjour" and they will say it back. They are not used to white people and Americans and so people tend to stare and a lot of times people on the street make weird or rude comments. I guess it's something you get used to. I am trying to keep a tally of how many marriage proposals I get; Cameroonian men just LOVE to propose, haha. Don't worry mom, I said no.
